Quick answer: the main ways to store a dinghy on a sailboat are on stern davits, lashed upside down on the foredeck or cabin top, deflated in a cockpit locker, hoisted on a stern arch, carried on a swim platform or transom (mostly on larger boats and catamarans), or towed astern. Davits are the most convenient for daily use, deck stowage is the safest for offshore passages, and deflating it is the only option on many smaller boats.

Which method suits you depends on the size of your boat, the type and weight of your tender, and whether you are hopping between anchorages or heading offshore. Below we compare each option, then cover how to secure the dinghy properly for a passage.

Dinghy Storage Options at a Glance

Method	Best for	Pros	Cons
Stern davits	Cruising boats over about 32 ft, RIBs	Fast launch and retrieval, deck stays clear	Weight high and aft, exposed to following seas, awkward stern-to
Foredeck or cabin top	Hard dinghies, small RIBs, inflatables	Secure for passages, low weight	Blocks visibility and hatches, outboard must come off, needs a halyard to lift
Deflated in a locker	Soft-floor and air-floor inflatables	Out of the way, protected from UV	Takes time to inflate, RIBs will not fit
Stern arch	Boats with a solar/radar arch	Combines dinghy lift and other gear	Arch must be engineered for the load
Swim platform / transom	Larger boats and catamarans	Easy to launch, low and stable	Blocks platform, limited dinghy size
Towing	Short coastal hops in calm water	No lifting, instant use	Drag, risk of swamping or flipping, chafe

1. Stern Davits

Davits are the favorite of liveaboards and long-term cruisers because the dinghy is ready to drop in seconds, which makes evening trips ashore and security (lifting the dinghy at night) much easier. Most sailboat davits are stainless-steel arms bolted to the transom or stern rail with block-and-tackle hoists. Higher-end systems have winches, electric hoists or swiveling arms.

What to Check Before Fitting Davits

• Load rating: add up the weight of the dinghy, outboard, fuel and anything you leave in it. Choose davits rated comfortably above that figure.
• Structure: the transom, deck and backing plates must carry the static load plus the shock loads of the boat pitching. Have a rigger or surveyor check if you are unsure.
• Clearance: the dinghy must hang high enough to stay clear of following seas. A wave filling a hanging dinghy can rip it, the davits, or part of the stern away.
• Trim and handling: a heavy RIB and outboard high on the stern can make a small boat squat, pitch more and sail less well.

Many cruisers use davits in protected waters but move the dinghy to the deck before an offshore passage, or at least remove the outboard and drain plug, and add strong fore-and-aft and side lashings so it cannot swing.

2. On the Foredeck or Cabin Top

Stowing the dinghy upside down on the foredeck or cabin top, secured in chocks or on padded blocks, is the traditional offshore solution. The weight is low and central, nothing hangs off the stern, and the dinghy is protected from breaking seas. Hard dinghies, nesting dinghies and small RIBs all work well here, as do partially deflated inflatables.

To get it aboard, most crews use the spinnaker or spare halyard attached to a three-point lifting bridle (a strong eye at the bow and two at the transom), then guide it over the lifelines. Before choosing this method, check that:

• The dinghy does not block forward visibility from the helm or the anchor locker and windlass.
• Hatches you need for ventilation or emergency exit can still open.
• Sheets, the inner forestay and the headsail can work without snagging on it.
• There are strong attachment points, such as through-bolted pad eyes, for the lashings.

3. Deflated in a Locker

Soft-floor and air-floor inflatables can be deflated, rolled up and stored in a cockpit locker or lazarette, along with oars, pump and seat. This keeps the deck clear and protects the fabric from sun damage. It is the only practical option for many boats under 30 feet.

The downside is setup time. With an electric pump, inflating and assembling a small inflatable typically takes several minutes, more with a slatted floor, and a manual pump adds sweat. Make sure everything is dry before you roll it up to avoid mold, and store the outboard securely on a stern-rail bracket. If you are short on locker space, our tips for efficient storage on a sailboat may help free some up.

4. Using a Stern Arch

Many cruising boats have a stainless or aluminum arch across the stern carrying solar panels, antennas and a radar. Some arches include integrated dinghy lifting points, effectively acting as davits. If your arch was designed only for solar panels, do not hang a dinghy from it without confirming its load rating; the dynamic loads at sea are far higher than the static weight. A well-built arch can combine power generation and dinghy storage neatly, and our guide to boat solar panel care covers looking after the panels above it.

5. Swim Platform and Transom Systems

Larger monohulls and many catamarans can carry the tender on or above the swim platform, using clip-on brackets, chocks, or hydraulic platforms that lower into the water so the dinghy can float on and off. On catamarans, davits between the hulls are standard. These systems make launching very easy but block the platform while the dinghy is aboard and limit the size of tender you can carry. If you sail a cat, see how they compare in catamarans vs monohulls.

6. Towing the Dinghy

Towing is the simplest option for short coastal trips in settled weather: there is nothing to lift and the dinghy is ready the moment you anchor. It does cost you speed, and in strong winds or following seas a towed dinghy can flip, swamp, surge into your transom or break its painter. We cover towline length, bridles and when to stop towing in our dedicated guide to towing a dinghy behind a sailboat.

Securing the Dinghy for a Passage

Whichever method you use, a dinghy that comes loose at sea can damage the boat or injure someone. Before a passage:

1. Remove the outboard and mount it on a stern-rail bracket or stow it below. Close the fuel vent and stow the tank separately.
2. Empty the dinghy of loose gear, fuel cans and anything that could fill with water or fly away.
3. Pull the drain plug (or leave it open on deck) so rain and spray can drain out.
4. Lash it in several directions: fore and aft and athwartships, using non-stretch line or ratchet straps to strong points. Pad any point where the dinghy rubs on the deck or davits.
5. On davits, hoist it as high as possible and add a cross-lashing or bridle so it cannot swing.
6. Check chafe and tension daily on long passages; straps loosen and lines wear surprisingly fast.

Choosing the Right Method for Your Boat

The type of dinghy narrows your options. A heavy RIB usually means davits, an arch or a large foredeck; a roll-up inflatable gives you the freedom to deflate it; a hard or nesting dinghy is happiest on deck. If you have not chosen a tender yet, our comparison of inflatable vs hard dinghies explains how each type affects stowage.

Many cruisers end up using more than one method: towing for a quick hop across the bay, davits in a familiar anchorage, and the foredeck before going offshore. For other gear that a cruising boat needs, see our list of cruising sailboat equipment essentials.

Summary

Davits offer the most convenience, foredeck stowage is the safest for passages, deflating into a locker suits small boats and soft inflatables, arches and swim platforms work well on bigger boats and catamarans, and towing is best kept to short hops in good weather. Whatever you choose, check the load on your boat’s structure, keep the dinghy high and dry, remove the outboard, and lash it securely before heading offshore.